November / December 1988
October is one of the unexploited delights of Monte Carlo. And apart from visitors to the many conferences which occupy the hotels at this time of year, the glories of the sunshine, empty beaches and traffic-free roads are appreciated only by the local year-round residents.
Monaco’s summer residents move away at the end of September, back to the cities, off to the ski slopes, or to warmer climes… carefully leaving a light on the balcony; not to hoodwink burglars, but to keep the meter running. Official tax-free residence requires six months occupancy and, with everything recorded on computers, an extra week in Rio could be costly.
Members of Monaco–USA played host to some of the Sixth Fleet, seeking a few days R & R in a safe port. I was invited aboard a real live atomic missile firing submarine, and after inching my way up narrow stairs, between row after row of computers and machines, I happily left the crew to cope with the cramped quarters, hot beds, and incarceration. They certainly pay their debt to society and earn all the extra pay. And how a six foot four officer could curl up small enough is a mystery! In a thoughtful gesture of thanks, the mailman brought me a bottle of my favourite maple syrup for breakfast pancakes. Something I can’t find around here. Gee, thanks much fellas! It’s funny what strange things from home are missed. Customs officials must be quite bewildered when checking my bags to find jelly, English tea, H & P biscuits, mint dental floss, English pork sausages and such like squeezed in between my shoes!
AIM started off the autumn season with a highly involved treasure hunt / car rally around the mountain villages behind Nice which did in one poor competitor’s car. A little mad gambling at the Casino in November could solve his problem though, as the prize for the champion of Black Jack is a Porsche 911!
A hint to the lucky winner, though. Read the fine print on your “fully insured, all risks” insurance policy. A newly arrived car owner recently strayed into Cannes, where her spanking new wheels proved an irresistible target to the local car thieves. Apart from being told she would probably be able to buy them back at the St. Laurent du Var markets, she then found her policy did not cover things stolen from a stationary car. If only they’d moved it first… before they stole the wheels! She’s now bolted on the new ones and is a little leery of parking in Cannes.
(According to New York police, car crime is on the way up. They had 61,775 cases in New York last year! Another good reason for living in Monte Carlo!)
Risking pneumonia and nibbles from the carefully protected fish frolicking in the sea around the Larvotto beach in Monte Carlo, I joined the hardy visitors from northern climes in a late October swim (like a winter tan, the idea of that arouses such jealousy when back home for Christmas!). Here, no one paid the slightest attention as three of the “Satin Dolls” from the Casino cabaret were catching a few rays in a sort of monokini. Decidedly supersonic!
So, now the bikinis go back in the closet and evening draws on, how to entertain ourselves? Concerts, ballet, theatre and opera suddenly sprout like stars on the Monaco calendar… and where shall we go for Christmas is the question on everyone’s lips. Warning! Flights are already almost full, and the helicopter service from Monaco to Nice expecting a frantic holiday rush. So book early.
Witches, goblins and dreadful ghosts spooked the sober Fontvieille residents as the American School paraded around the stadium at Halloween. Fontvieille is building up madly, soon to have a big marketplace and a rumour of an English pub to cater for all those lucky fellas who lounge around the yachts in the wintertime. That shouldn’t faze either the popular King’s Head pub at Roquebrune, or Flashman’s bar in Monaco; they’re always full to bursting. Both have wonderful Christmas and New Year parties planned… and I hear the Christmas dinner arranged by the British Club at the Beach Plaza Hotel is usually first class… just in case you haven’t your own Harrod’s pudding stock.
Christmas cards abound at Scruples in rue Princess Caroline and the post offices sell unique cards. I once decided to economize and make my own; but only managed six before I ran out of ideas and will power.
The Drama Group talked about doing a pantomime this Christmas, but it is difficult to stage and they were a button short; so a comedy “Play on” is being staged for your entertainment on December 9 and 10 at the Theatre Princesse Grace, near the Casino. This theatre has an interesting selection of plays during the winter season, and they are not all in French. If you have never been into the Salle Garnier, the theatre in the Casino, the Monte Carlo Ballet, under new direction, begins the season with Offenbach’s La Gaieté Parisienne and will dance Les Sylphides at Christmas. This lovely little theatre is a delightful setting for special Christmas treats.
For other music lovers, Igor and Valery Oistrakh join the Philharmonic Orchestra at the end of November… and, of course, there will be Verdi and Rossini in the New Year for those snob, pretentious opera lovers. (Katia Ricciarelli is giving a recital here in spring.)
On a lighter note, for children and less serious sorts, Monaco’s National Day, November 19, is a firework and fun fair sort of occasion and a great day to go up on the rock to see the Changing of the Guard at noon. You’d better go early, as everyone wants to see the Prince’s Guard in red and white and shiny swords, parade of police and fire engines and an impressive fly past.
Although there are frequent individual showings by today’s painters in Monte Carlo, it is surprising that there is no National Gallery. However, one of the greatest free shows of antiques and paintings takes place at Sotheby’s at the end of November, prior to their auction on December 2 and 3. Some of the most interesting items are a water jug in silver, carrying the arms of the Fitzgerald who followed James II of Scotland into exile in France after the Glorious Revolution, after they lost the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. (There is an exhibition about this period currently in Whitehall, London in case any history buffs are interested.) The French and Catholic Irish fought with James… and the jug has belonged to a family in Brittany ever since.
The large Italian landscape by Hubert Robert is also in the sale; expected to bring an estimate of 1 to 1½ million francs. Sotheby’s representative Lucien Corney recommends you come to see the collection of thirty opaline glass vases if you are looking for a unique Christmas gift. Don’t be put off by the prices of the pieces de resistance; there are always fascinating bric-a-brac to be found at auctions. And you just may be lucky enough to see some of the great pieces before they disappear into someone’s private collection.
If I don’t see you at the American Club’s wonderful Thanksgiving Day Luncheon in the newly redecorated Salle Empire at the Hotel de Paris… happy turkey day y’all. And to all…
a very merry Christmas.
